Microsoft Visual Studio Express 2012 for Web
Visual Studio Express, a free download from Microsoft, is surprisingly light on its feet and has a ton of helpful ingredients, such as Intellisense predictions of what you might need to know, Design view editing, useful highlighting of your position on the page, and a clear, clean layout.
It's not completely WYSYWYG (accurate about how your web pages will appear on screen (see images) but it's close enough.
Its big handicap is being wedded to ASP.NET, the Windows framework to simplify creation of Web pages. It means your provider has to run the site on a Microsoft Web Server. Mine doesn't.
It also wants you to open up a site rather than simply a file, when you start.
You can use it to write PHP controls over your content held in a mySQL database (as WordPress does). But that might seem to be deliberately hobbling yourself.
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